• 80g Acrylic One liquid
• 160g Acrylic One powder
• 3 plastic mixing cups
• 3 spatulas
• Baking paper
• Pigments of your choice

Tip: Read through the steps carefully first and have everything ready before you start.

1. First choose which three colors you want to make for the pieces in your terrazzo (but of course you can also choose to make 2 colors or even just 1 color for your terrazzo chunks).

2. The kit contains 5 standard colours (the five bottles with dropper caps, put the bottle with "C" on it aside, this is for the penultimate step ). With the primary colours; yellow, blue and red you can make all the colours you want according to the colour wheel below (see tab Colour advice).

Set a timer for 20 minutes and start it as soon as you start mixing the ingredients.

1. Merging raw materials:
add half of the powder to the liquid. Mix with a wooden spatula for 20 seconds until all the powder is absorbed into the liquid. Then add the rest of the powder and mix for 1 minute until all lumps are gone.

2. Divide the mixture about equally over 3 cups. After 20 minutes the hardening process starts and the mixture should be poured onto the baking paper.

3. Add your chosen pigments per cup.

NOTE! Use max. 8 drops per cup. If you use more, there is a chance that the hardening process will slow down and even stop.

4. Mix well and remember the time!

5. Spread the mixture thinly over the baking paper (see photo 1). You will now get 3 wide stripes of color.

6. Let it harden for +/- 40 min. The more pigment, the longer it can take to harden.

7. Check if the mixture has hardened enough by gently pressing it (it should look matte). Is it still sticky? Wait a little longer and check again a few minutes later.

8. Once the plaster has become matt and hard, you can remove the different 'plates' you have made from the baking paper. You can now break these into small pieces in the three cups you just used (see photo 2). Before you do this, try to crumble the hardened plaster from the plastic cup so that you get even more pieces.

The size of the pieces determines how big your color pieces will be in the end result. Anything under 1 square cm is a good size or depending on your (artificial) nails no bigger than your pinky nail. The smaller you break the pieces, the busier your item will be.

9. Congratulations, your terrazzo pieces are ready!

1. You can make a color brighter by adding more of the same pigment.

2. Use less pigment for a light color. Start gently! Once your color is bright, you can't make it lighter (not even by adding white, which is not as powerful compared to the other colors).

3. For example, you can take some pigment with a toothpick (less than a drop) and dip it in the plaster. It will seem at first as if you have hardly put any pigment in it, but if you stir it with your spatula you will get a nice pastel color. You can repeat this a few times if you want to go a bit brighter.

4. Prefer a darker color? Then add black. Be careful! A drop of black is very dark. Start with a toothpick of black and if that is not enough, a drop.

5. Be careful with the amount of pigment. Better safe than sorry? Start with some pigment on a toothpick and wipe it off on your spatula. Want a more intense result? Use drops. The amount of pigment you use will affect your curing time.

6. Look at the color guide of our House Raccoon workshops (this is a good indication of the possibilities, although colors sometimes appear to be fickle). Note that you only have a choice of the 5 included colors and that not all colors from the color guide have the same formulation. If necessary, you can simply order the missing colors.

"Warm colors" and "cold colors"

Warm colors are on the red side of the color spectrum and include shades such as red, orange, and yellow. These colors are often associated with warmth, energy, passion, and excitement. They convey a sense of intimacy and coziness. Warm colors are often used in spaces where a lively and dynamic atmosphere is desired, such as dining rooms or living rooms.

Cold colors are on the blue side of the color spectrum and include shades such as blue, green, and purple. These colors are often associated with calmness, tranquility, freshness, and serenity. Cold colors are often used in spaces where relaxation and concentration are important, such as bedrooms or offices.

The quantities are based on making 1 candle as you have 1 mold. You will need these quantities again later when you make the 2nd candle.

After curing, a pot weighs about 350g. When pouring the mixture, there is always some material left in the mixing cup. That is why we need 360g of mixture.

• 80g Acrylic One liquid
• 160g Acrylic One powder
• 120g of the Terrazzo pieces we just made.
• Optional: gold/silver glitter (purchased separately on our website)
• Big cup
• Wooden spatula
• Your silicone mold

Because there is 840g Acrylic One in the DIY box, it is possible to pour 2 candles.

Make sure that all of the terrazzo chips made in step 1, including any leftover material in the mixing cups, are used to add to the mixture in step 2. This is to avoid running out of material.

Of course it is always possible to order more Acrylic One to further expand your collection. The pigments in the box are sufficient for multiple candles.

Tip: Read through the steps carefully first and have everything ready before you start.

1. Determine the color of your base mixture in advance. Choice stress? Get inspiration via our Instagram account !

2. Set a timer for 20 minutes and start it as soon as you start mixing the ingredients.

3. Combine ingredients: add half of the powder to the liquid. Mix for 20 seconds until all the powder is absorbed into the liquid. Then add the rest of the powder to the liquid and mix for 1 minute until all lumps are gone.

4. Mix well and remember the time!

5. Add pigments. Max. 25 drops . The brochure color guide states 10 drops per 100 grams Acrylic One. So 25 drops for 255 grams.

If you do more, there is a chance that the curing process will slow down or even stop.

5. Mix well again.

6. Now add about half of the made color pieces, (so half of 120g) little by little, into the mixing cup. Mix everything well, but make sure that the whole remains liquid. If you tilt your cup, the liquid should still move.

You should not select piece by piece, because in the end it is 'random' how the pieces end up in the final result. So just stir well with the colored pieces to not lose time .

7. Optional: add gold/silver glitter .

8. Mix well again. Don't stress but think about the time!

9. Place the template on a straight (level) surface.

10. Pour the mixture slowly into the mold. Shake the mold from left to right, from top to bottom so that the mixture is evenly distributed over the entire mold.

11. Gently tap the sides of the mold with your fingertips to release any air bubbles (you won't get it all out, but this will minimize air bubbles).

12. Let it harden for +/-45 - 60 min . CAUTION! Do not touch your mold until it has hardened to prevent breakage.

13. Press your nail or a toothpick into your jar. If it doesn't leave an imprint, you can remove the item from the mold.

PLEASE NOTE . Sometimes this process can be faster/slower due to the ambient temperature => the warmer, the faster the Acrylic One will start to harden. The colder, the slower the Acrylic One will harden. On the other hand, this can also depend on how many pigments you used. However, it is not an exact science!

Sometimes there is still a bit of material left in your mixing cup after you poured the cup into your mold. Take the baking paper or a plastic sheet and pour the remaining material on it. Then spread it out as explained in step 1. Wait half an hour, make some pieces and you have a new supply of terrazzo pieces!

Sometimes you just don't have enough material to fill the mold completely. Don't worry, because you can just make a little extra. If the Acrylic one in the cup is still soft, you can fill it with, for example, 10 grams of liquid and 20 grams of powder. A small drop of pigment, stir briefly and you can fill your mold.

If the Acrylic One in the mixing cup is already hardening, wait 30 minutes and crumble the hardened acrylic one into pieces. You can use these again as terrazzo pieces for your next candle.

• 80g Acrylic One liquid
• 160g Acrylic One powder
• 120g terrazzo pieces, take a mix of your three created colours
• Optional: gold/silver glitter (purchased separately on our website)
• Big cup
• Wooden spatula
• Your silicone card mold

Now repeat steps 2 and 3 exactly. ;)

What do you need?

• Bath with warm water bottom
• 80 grit sandpaper
• 320 grit sandpaper
• 600 grit sandpaper
• Silicone caps

1. Take a bath with a base of warm/hot water or fill your sink with warm/hot water.
   
2. Take sandpaper 80 grit. With this we sand away the top layer of the mixture.
   
3. Wet both your pot and sandpaper in the warm/hot water.
   
4. Support your pot by placing your hand underneath it or place it on the table.
   
5. Sand your item. A milky layer will form, wash your item regularly in warm/hot water to see how the terrazzo pieces come forward. Sand until you like the terrazzo effect. ;)
   
6. Then sand away any protruding bits from the bottom with 80 grit sandpaper.
   
7. If the terrazzo pieces are sufficiently prominent for you (this is personal), you can move on to the next step!

1. Take 320 grit sandpaper, wet it in warm/hot water and keep sanding until you feel like you are sliding off your item.
   
2. Take 600 grit sandpaper and repeat the previous step.
   
3. Dry your item.
   
4. Let dry for 15 min.

• Blue cloth
• Bottle with 'C' on it (coating)
• Silicone caps

Compare your newly polished pot with a nice piece of untreated wood. To finish your pot, you can now choose from a number of options.

Please note! Do not provide the inside of your pot with a coating because it will come into contact with the heat/fire of the candle.

• You do not need to provide your pot with a protective layer. You will then retain exactly the appearance as the pot is now. The disadvantage is that the pot is then more sensitive to stains caused by moisture and grease. Comparable to untreated wood.
  
• You can also provide your pot with a thin layer of beeswax or perhaps another furniture wax that you have available. This wax layer ensures that the colors become more intense. In addition, it provides reasonable protection against dirt and minor moisture. Apply a small amount of moisture to the back of your pot to view the effect.
  
• For better protection, you can use the enclosed coating. This creates a thin protective layer on your pot against dirt and moisture. If moisture gets on your pot, make sure that it is removed in time.
  

Applying the coating gives the pot a shine and can in some cases also cause streaks. To prevent this, we recommend diluting the coating with water (10 ml coating with 10 ml water). Immediately after applying the coating, rub it with a soft cloth so that only a thin layer remains. If desired, repeat this 1 or 2 more times after first allowing the coating to dry each time. To check whether this gives the desired result, first do a small test on the back of the pot.

For the very best protection, it is possible to apply a thin layer of Epoxy to the outside of the pot. This gives a strong and shiny result. For the instructions for working with Epoxy, we refer you to the instructions of the various suppliers.

Finally, if necessary, stick the silicone caps on the bottom of your item to protect your furniture.